Climbing up towards a small brick bridge I can hear exclamations of wonder from beyond. A lady to my left laughs and says, “everyone says ‘wow’”. I’ve reached the top of the ‘steps’ part of the Llanberis track climb up Snowdon and have another tough stretch to do.
I head under the bridge and am hit by a gust of wind and a fresh view. As I take in the mountains ahead of me, some tears fall. The mountains stretch as far as I can see, crags and grassy slopes climbing almost vertically into the blue grey sky, a few clouds whispering their way across the tops.
Back in early 2020 I was having an identity crisis, I’d started a new job, my marriage was rocky, I was turning 40 that year so hormones were stirring, and a new virus was making headlines. I needed to get out and enjoy life, climb a mountain or two, I enjoy hiking, how hard could adding a slope be, then Britain went into lockdown.
Five years on and I’m on a guided sunset walk up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) with Mountain Walks. I’m overweight, having struggled to keep it off and hormones are playing havoc with my brain— getting so bad I barely trust my decisions. Right now, sat at the meet point, I’m seriously wondering if my brain has let me down again.
Under the bridge and the view ahead
Two hours ago, full of confidence, I got a treat for the summit but also have my usual walking pack: rucksack, water, rolls, cereal bars and foam bananas, a fleece, rain jacket and my trusty trekking poles.
People appear and form groups. I’m alone and sitting next to another woman. We look after each other’s bags while we pop to the last nice toilet before the mountain and ‘wild wees’ become the norm for the next 6-7 hours.
Anxiety is creeping in now we’re setting off, ‘what have I let myself in for’? Now the first climb begins and isn’t doing anything to alleviate those worries. It’s up tarmac and there’s so many walkers heading back down, looking exhausted and so very hot. It’s one of the warmest days of the year. One foot in front of other is my mantra.
The route I took was the Llanberis path, which is the usual one for first timers as it is less on an incline, but it does take the longest at nine miles. Every route is rated as hard/ strenuous.
Starting at Pen-y-Pass car park, the shortest is the Pyg Track at seven miles but still takes about six hours and climbs 732m. There is discussion around the origins of the name Pyg whether it could be a ‘pass of pigs’ or after Pen y Gwryd Hostel.
The eight-mile Miners Track was first opened in 1832 to transport the copper from the mine. It takes roughly six hours.
If you’re looking for a harder climb is the 1015m of the Watkin Path, named after MP Sir Edward Watkin. Eight miles and again taking about six hours it starts at Nant Gwynant Car Park.
My new friend has a wobbly moment and she’s feeling sick on the first climb but we’re catching up with the group and reaching the mountain proper. Fear is now replaced with excitement and awe at these surroundings. Feeling like the world is opening into the sky, with peaks reaching up and valleys dropping down.
We’re heading onto the Llanberis Track – the longest route up Yr Wyddfa. This is the steepest I have ever climbed, but that’s not saying much.
I notice a sharp mountain and naïvely I ask the guide ‘is that the summit’ – I’ve lost all sense of direction – smiling he explains it’s a few meters shy of Yr Wyddfa and it houses a hydroelectric power station. Having spotted the base earlier in the day and assumed it was a James Bond villain’s lair.
Hikers awaiting their turn at the trig point
From Owain, one of the guides, I learn there is a Rainbow Beetle which only inhabits this particular path. It can be found in other countries but has only been found here in Eryri (Snowdonia) in the UK. I’m keeping my eyes peeled.
We at the halfway point, and a break at the café. Everyone is getting ice cream, but I opt for a sit down, food and photos. Ahead is a lake, it’s not close enough for a dip but the sun glinting off the water is very inviting, I promise to return soon.
Some fellow hikers are letting us know it gets harder. I’m feeling good at this point and isn’t making me anxious.
Onwards now and here comes to the second challenging part, the ‘steps’ section – more a steep incline akin to steps. My hiking buddy is crumbling at the sight of them and says she can’t go on but tells me to keep going.
My physical strength is draining and familiar anxieties are slowly flowing through my brain and it’s taking much of my mental ability to shoo them away. One foot in front of the other. The gremlin is popping up, 'You’re overweight and 45 years old! Are you crazy?’ One foot in front of other.
I can see the summit, the destination I’ve been thinking about for five years. It’s still another mile up and there is one more steep section, but I’ve caught up with a few of the other walkers in my group and they are full of energy.
The final hard section has come with a prize, a view of a lake with a cliff forming a ridge which is snaking its way to me. The far peak of the ridge is bathed in a rich gold from the setting sun, leaving the valley, lake and neighbouring peak in moody, blue tones.
The Copa (summit)
“Wow”, I’ve reached the summit, the wind is harsh and my body is screaming but I’ve made it. There are a few people waiting to get their photo taken at the top and a friendly guide takes my photo.
I rest, take some photos and let my family know I’ve made it. I eat and crack open my tiny bottle of Prosecco, causing massive laughter from the other hikers. It tastes so good. I leave for three-hour descent, one foot in front of other.
There is access to Llanberis by bus through Transport For Wales (0333 3211 202) from Bangor and Caernarfon in around 30-45 minutes to Llanberis.
An all-day bus pass costs £7.
I stayed at the Dolafon Guest House to two nights, booked 5 months in advance through Booking.com. £190 including private shower, a decent breakfast and friendly hosts.
There are many places from YHA to private cottages to stay and I highly recommend booking as early as possible.
Llanberis has many restaurants. I opted for the Peak Restaurant (01286 872777), nice food and well-priced.
I also ate at the Y Gwynedd Inn (07925203407), decent pub meal and not busy for 3-4pm on a Saturday afternoon.
The sunset walk was through Mountain Walks, costing £39.